Get The Right Measurement and Fit

A suit jacket size is based on a number and a letter. The number represents your chest size in inches and the letter (S, R, L) your overall height. So, a 40R means a 40 inch chest and regular height.

Short: 5'5" to 5'7"
Regular: 5'8" to 5'10"
Long: 5'11'-6'2"

The suit pants have what is called a "drop", which is the differnce between your jacket size and pant size. American suits on average have a 6-inche drop, so a 40R would have pants of size 34.

The perfect fitting suit should have a jacket shoulder that ends at or near where the top of your arm and shoulder meet. There should be no bunching of fabric at the base of the neck. The jacket back should cover your rear and the jacket arms should come down to the top knuckle of your thumb when your hands are at your side. Most, if not all, off-the-rack suits require some tailoring; and, getting it tailored for you particular body type will make all the difference in the final presentation of the suit.

To Vent Or Not To Vent

There are three different vent styles for your jacket: no vents, center vent and side vents.

Two, Three, Four Buttons

How many buttons you want your jacket to have depends on your taste and needs. A two button suit is a more traditional and formal look; a three button suit is more trending and a little less formal; and finally, the four button is very trending and informal.

The rules for buttoning your suit:
 2-Button- only the top button.
 3-Button- either one of the top two buttons, but never the bottom.

Canvassed or Fused

A canvassed suit jacket is constructed of an outer fabric layer, middle canvas shell and inner lining all stitched together. In a fused suit layers of fabric are glued together. Because of this design differences, a canvassed jacket tends to drape better over the body and is not susceptible to bubbling from too many visits to the dry cleaner.

Threads Count

The the higher number of threads that make up the fabric of the suit. The higher the quality.

Choose Your Fabric: Wool, Polyster or Cotton

Choosing what fabric you want you suit to be can be difficult. Most good suits are made up of wool.

Dry Cleaning Your Suit

Try to keep your dry cleaning to a minimum to extend the life of the suit. In between the dry cleaning, for wrinkles and odors use a home steamer or get it pressed. Also,use a suit brush after each wear to keep it lint free.

Storing Your Suit

When hanging your suit make sure you use a contoured or curved hanger to maintain the shape of the jacket and keep it unbuttoned. You can even use suit bags to hang them in the closet, but make sure you buy the ones that breathe. Don't overload your pockets with stuff and unbutton your suit when you sit down.

Moth Protection

Protect you suit from moths using cedar blocks or moth balls.

Shopping Cheat Sheet

• Check lining and details of suit.
• Ask salesperson what is the thread count.
• Ask if the jacket is canvassed or fused.
• Ask about ease of alterations to suit.
• Look at the fit in a three-way mirror.
• Make sure your shoulders fit snug agaisnt the jacket shoulders.
• Check that the shoulder padding is appropriate for you build.
• See that the sleeves come down to the base of the thumb when hands are at your side.
• See that pants hem come down to the back top of the soles of your shoes, if buying separates
• See that the front and chest area of the suit isn' buckled, bunched or wrinkled.
• See that there is no bunching of material below the back or your neck.
• See that the jacket back comes down to the end of part of you rear.
• Check what the suit is made of- wool, wool-blends, etc.

Suit Terminology

• Single-breasted Suit: single vertical row of buttons on front of suit.
• Double-breasted Suit: two vertical rows of buttons on front of suit.
• Three Piece Suit: jacket, vest and pants.

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